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Swat, generally known as the Switzerland of Asia, is one of the most beautiful valleys in the World.
Introduction:The charming Swat, a peaceful and fascinating tract in the lap of vegetative sky-high mountains, with eternal snow on their lofty crests, is an everlasting source of attraction for the visitors. Its beauty attracts tourists from all over the world to enjoy the soothing and serene sceneries, and the friendly behavior of its inhabitants. A visitor entered in Pakistan would never be contented without roaming about Swat.
The area of Swat is 4000 sq. miles with a population of about 1250000. Its height is not similar but varies from 2500 ft. to 7500 ft. above sea level.
Situation:The valley of Swat is situated in the north of N.W.F.P, 35° North Latitude and 72° and 30° East Longitude, and is enclosed by the sky-high mountains.
Chitral and Gilgit are situated in the north, Dir in the west, and Mardan in the south, while Indus separates it from Hazara in the east.
Chitral and Gilgit are situated in the north, Dir in the west, and Mardan in the south, while Indus separates it from Hazara in the east.
Population:
The population of Swat is round about 1,250,000.
Languages:
The population of Swat is round about 1,250,000.
Languages:
Pukhto (Pashto) is the main language spoken, and known, everywhere in Swat. Besides this, there are three other languages too: Kohistani Language spoken in Abasin Kohistan, Kohistani Language spoken in Kohistan-e-Swat, and Gujro (spoken by Ajars, and Gujars). Gujro is a language like Punjabi mixed with Pukhto.
Religion:
All of the residents of Swat are strictly devoted to Islam. A Swati can tolerate the worst challenge to his life, but cannot bear a challenge to Islam. To speak against Islam in the presence of a Swati, is a call-for-death. Though, they do not offer their prayers regularly, but they are very punctual to keep fasts. They end terms with, and, if possible, beat, a so-called Muslim who does not keep fast.
Due to the lack of religious knowledge, they are superstitious, and have assumed some customs as parts of the religion. But they are far better in belief than the other parts of Pakistan. It is hopped that they will be reformed within a short period, because the torches of knowledge and the beacons of education are seen in the new generation. The education, will, certainly refine their ways and beliefs and happiness and prosperity will prevail in the society.
Firstly in Swati Society, Talaq (Divorce) is regarded as the most mean commitment. So, the rate of divorce is very low here. A man who divorces his wife is contemptible one. There is no worst abuse in Swat, than to call someone "Talaqi" - A man who has dovorced his wife.
Secondly, though the landscape and other natural environment of Swat is romantic, but love marriage is out of the etiquette of Swati Society. The people are very relifious and live in Pardah (veil). So, boys and girls are not disturbed by love. The boys are so shameful that on the days of marriages, the poor shying bridegrooms leave homes and come back at midnight so that no one may see them. Some twenty years earlier the would come to their homes at least one week later, as they had been married.
Thirdly, dance is enjoyed too much in other societies and is regarded as their cultural trait, but Swati people hate dance. The professional dancers and musicians are thought to be the lowest and meanest creatures of the society. However, the amateur musicians are exempted.
Religion:
All of the residents of Swat are strictly devoted to Islam. A Swati can tolerate the worst challenge to his life, but cannot bear a challenge to Islam. To speak against Islam in the presence of a Swati, is a call-for-death. Though, they do not offer their prayers regularly, but they are very punctual to keep fasts. They end terms with, and, if possible, beat, a so-called Muslim who does not keep fast.
Due to the lack of religious knowledge, they are superstitious, and have assumed some customs as parts of the religion. But they are far better in belief than the other parts of Pakistan. It is hopped that they will be reformed within a short period, because the torches of knowledge and the beacons of education are seen in the new generation. The education, will, certainly refine their ways and beliefs and happiness and prosperity will prevail in the society.
Firstly in Swati Society, Talaq (Divorce) is regarded as the most mean commitment. So, the rate of divorce is very low here. A man who divorces his wife is contemptible one. There is no worst abuse in Swat, than to call someone "Talaqi" - A man who has dovorced his wife.
Secondly, though the landscape and other natural environment of Swat is romantic, but love marriage is out of the etiquette of Swati Society. The people are very relifious and live in Pardah (veil). So, boys and girls are not disturbed by love. The boys are so shameful that on the days of marriages, the poor shying bridegrooms leave homes and come back at midnight so that no one may see them. Some twenty years earlier the would come to their homes at least one week later, as they had been married.
Thirdly, dance is enjoyed too much in other societies and is regarded as their cultural trait, but Swati people hate dance. The professional dancers and musicians are thought to be the lowest and meanest creatures of the society. However, the amateur musicians are exempted.
Physical Features:
Swat can be divided into two physical regions:
Swat can be divided into two physical regions:
- Mountainous Ranges.
- Plains.
Swat is lying in the lap of Mountainous Ranges, which are the offshoots of Hindukush, so the larger part of Swat is covered with high mountains and hills, the crests of which is hidden by everlasting snow. Though these gigantic Ranges run irregularly: some to the west while the others to the east, but the general direction is North-South. These ranges enclose small but very enchanting valleys.
Summer Rains:Usually, there is a gap of one dry month, June, between the rains of spring and summer. The summer rains begin in July, and end in September. These rains are not so continuous. They are in intermittent position. Sometimes the rainfall takes place suddenly with hailstones, which results in the damages to property and lives. The rain of this season falls with shower and lightning. The annual rainfall is about 50 inch.
The general effects of the weather condition are cold winter and warm summer, and the coldest winter in mountainous areas.
Eastern Ranges:
In Kohistan-e-Swat the chief knot of eastern ranges is Mankial. Its northern branches separate Kohistan-e-Swat from Abasin Kohistan. These ranges form a barrier between Gilgit and Swat, and between Chitral and Swat. The southern extension of Mankial ranges reaches proper Swat. There they join Shangla ranges. Shangla ranges separate proper Swat from Shangla Par area (Shangla Par district).
In Shangla district, there are Karora Ranges, which separate Puran from Kanra and Ghurband.
The continuation of Shangla ranges joins Dwasaray. On the one hand Dwasaray separates lower Swat from Puran, on the other, it set aside the Buner from Puran.
Now the general Direction of the ranges turns westward. Here it is called Elum. Elum Ranges is a big wall between the proper Swat and Buner. The Elum ranges at last join mountains of Malakand.
The Western Ranges:
Western ranges start from the mountain and hills of Gabral, Kohistan-e-Swat. It joins the hills of Kundal (Utror). There these ranges meet Daral Ranges. These ranges form a border with Dir district. They run west ward and are named according to the locality. For example Lalko ranges Manrai and Chaprai etc. at last they join the hills of Adenzee and Shamozee. Manrai ranges send off some off shoots southward. They the hills separate Arnoyay valley from the widest valley of Nekpikheil valley.
In Buner, there are many ranges of hills. Some of these hills run east west while others north south. For example Ambela Ranges form a border between Sodam Rustam (Mardan) and Kawga. Again, there are some ranges, which separates the surrounding areas of Kawga from Chinglai. The pass through these ranges is known as "Doormai Kandaw". There come other ranges. These are the hills of Dambara. So it is hard to count the actual number of the hills and ranges, but this is a fact that the major portion of Buner district is covered with hills. Though, these hills are not as high as hills of Kohistan-e-Swat, yet they enclose many small charming valleys and are more populated.
In the armpits of these mountains and hills there are small beautiful valleys, which are praiseworthy, these are limited to the watercourses of local rivers. The hills or mountains no doubt, enclose these valleys, but the local people have connected them by narrow path through high passes.
These mountain ranges have some high peaks, which are capped with everlasting snow. In the north of Mankial Ranges, Falakseir is a well-known peak with a height of 19415 ft above the sea level. Chokail is another sky-high peak in the same ranges, which lies to the south of Falakseir. The height of this peak is 20528 ft. The third one is Mount Mankial in the vicinity of Chokail. This mount is 18338 ft high above sea level.
An explorer submerged in the snow while he tried to conquer them. However, a Japanese adventurer conquered mount Mankial in 1975.
In these high ranges there are lakes, known as Dand. In Ushu the famous lake is Mahodand (the lake of the fish).
In the eastern ranges, the other famous Dand is Bashigram Dand. Though, there are many Dands but Bashigram Dand is very charming. It seems that this Dand have been made by some gigantic creatures, and all the big blocks have been prepared very carefully by the sculptor and have been placed skillfully. The natural scene of this Dand is so charming that the ex-ruler of Swat has visited it thrice. This Dand is one of the sources of Bashigram River.
The western ranges, Daral Ranges, have also three big Dands. Two of them lie in the area of Swat, while the third one is in the boundary of DIR.
The Dand of Kundal is the largest of all the Dands of these ranges. It is rather a tiny sea surrounded by the high peaks with murmuring rills. In the vicinity of this biggest Dand there are two small Dands, one is called Khaperai Dand (fairy Dand) and the next is the Dand of Speen Khwar. This Dand is so charming that the ex-president of Pakistan, Farooq Ahmad Khan Laghari came here by helicopter to enjoy the enchanting scene of this Dand. Seidgai Dand is second in size, but it lies out of the borders (watershed) of Swat. It is situated at the terminal of Wosheray Dara, Dir. It is mentioned here, because, the pastures of this area are hired by shepherds of Swat. The Dand of Daral is third in size, which is the smallest one among the big Dands.
These Dands feed rivers. For example, Daral Dand feeds Daral River, which joins Swat River in Bahrain.
These ranges have good pastures, generally, the areas in the vicinity of a Dand is used as a pasture. These pastures are very charming. The land surface is covered with green grass. The grazing cattle, goats, sheep, cows, horses and even the buffaloes on the slopes seem very charming.
Some of the famous pastures are Mair, Tolay, Jamdarai, Seidgai, Tharkana, Kar Banda, Chamber, Jaba, Kundal, Batal, Lado Banda, Loi Pandghalay etc.
These pastures are lying in the knot of Daral. Moreover, each Spinsar (denude mount) has pastures. For example, Bashigram Pasture, and the pasture of Ajmair are at such a height that the rock is denuded, and have no soil.
In Kohistan-e-Swat the chief knot of eastern ranges is Mankial. Its northern branches separate Kohistan-e-Swat from Abasin Kohistan. These ranges form a barrier between Gilgit and Swat, and between Chitral and Swat. The southern extension of Mankial ranges reaches proper Swat. There they join Shangla ranges. Shangla ranges separate proper Swat from Shangla Par area (Shangla Par district).
In Shangla district, there are Karora Ranges, which separate Puran from Kanra and Ghurband.
The continuation of Shangla ranges joins Dwasaray. On the one hand Dwasaray separates lower Swat from Puran, on the other, it set aside the Buner from Puran.
Now the general Direction of the ranges turns westward. Here it is called Elum. Elum Ranges is a big wall between the proper Swat and Buner. The Elum ranges at last join mountains of Malakand.
The Western Ranges:
Western ranges start from the mountain and hills of Gabral, Kohistan-e-Swat. It joins the hills of Kundal (Utror). There these ranges meet Daral Ranges. These ranges form a border with Dir district. They run west ward and are named according to the locality. For example Lalko ranges Manrai and Chaprai etc. at last they join the hills of Adenzee and Shamozee. Manrai ranges send off some off shoots southward. They the hills separate Arnoyay valley from the widest valley of Nekpikheil valley.
In Buner, there are many ranges of hills. Some of these hills run east west while others north south. For example Ambela Ranges form a border between Sodam Rustam (Mardan) and Kawga. Again, there are some ranges, which separates the surrounding areas of Kawga from Chinglai. The pass through these ranges is known as "Doormai Kandaw". There come other ranges. These are the hills of Dambara. So it is hard to count the actual number of the hills and ranges, but this is a fact that the major portion of Buner district is covered with hills. Though, these hills are not as high as hills of Kohistan-e-Swat, yet they enclose many small charming valleys and are more populated.
In the armpits of these mountains and hills there are small beautiful valleys, which are praiseworthy, these are limited to the watercourses of local rivers. The hills or mountains no doubt, enclose these valleys, but the local people have connected them by narrow path through high passes.
These mountain ranges have some high peaks, which are capped with everlasting snow. In the north of Mankial Ranges, Falakseir is a well-known peak with a height of 19415 ft above the sea level. Chokail is another sky-high peak in the same ranges, which lies to the south of Falakseir. The height of this peak is 20528 ft. The third one is Mount Mankial in the vicinity of Chokail. This mount is 18338 ft high above sea level.
An explorer submerged in the snow while he tried to conquer them. However, a Japanese adventurer conquered mount Mankial in 1975.
In these high ranges there are lakes, known as Dand. In Ushu the famous lake is Mahodand (the lake of the fish).
In the eastern ranges, the other famous Dand is Bashigram Dand. Though, there are many Dands but Bashigram Dand is very charming. It seems that this Dand have been made by some gigantic creatures, and all the big blocks have been prepared very carefully by the sculptor and have been placed skillfully. The natural scene of this Dand is so charming that the ex-ruler of Swat has visited it thrice. This Dand is one of the sources of Bashigram River.
The western ranges, Daral Ranges, have also three big Dands. Two of them lie in the area of Swat, while the third one is in the boundary of DIR.
The Dand of Kundal is the largest of all the Dands of these ranges. It is rather a tiny sea surrounded by the high peaks with murmuring rills. In the vicinity of this biggest Dand there are two small Dands, one is called Khaperai Dand (fairy Dand) and the next is the Dand of Speen Khwar. This Dand is so charming that the ex-president of Pakistan, Farooq Ahmad Khan Laghari came here by helicopter to enjoy the enchanting scene of this Dand. Seidgai Dand is second in size, but it lies out of the borders (watershed) of Swat. It is situated at the terminal of Wosheray Dara, Dir. It is mentioned here, because, the pastures of this area are hired by shepherds of Swat. The Dand of Daral is third in size, which is the smallest one among the big Dands.
These Dands feed rivers. For example, Daral Dand feeds Daral River, which joins Swat River in Bahrain.
These ranges have good pastures, generally, the areas in the vicinity of a Dand is used as a pasture. These pastures are very charming. The land surface is covered with green grass. The grazing cattle, goats, sheep, cows, horses and even the buffaloes on the slopes seem very charming.
Some of the famous pastures are Mair, Tolay, Jamdarai, Seidgai, Tharkana, Kar Banda, Chamber, Jaba, Kundal, Batal, Lado Banda, Loi Pandghalay etc.
These pastures are lying in the knot of Daral. Moreover, each Spinsar (denude mount) has pastures. For example, Bashigram Pasture, and the pasture of Ajmair are at such a height that the rock is denuded, and have no soil.
The Plain:
The true plain is not found here, yet the local people call to some areas Plain Surfaces. These so-called plain surfaces may be divided under the following headings:
- The Valley of Swat.
- The Plains of Buner
The Valley of Swat:
Actually the valley of Swat starts from the foothill of Malakand but we are concerned with portion from Landakay to Gabral (Gulabad), the area within the administrative boundaries of Swat.
The length of the valley from Landakay to Gabral is 91 miles. Two narrow strips of plains run along the banks of Swat River from Landakay to Madyan. Beyond Madyan in Kohistan-e-Swat, the plan is too little to be mentioned. So for as the width concerns, it is not similar, it varies from place to place. We can say that the average width is 5 miles. The widest portion of the valley is between Barikot and Khwazakheila. The widest view point and the charming sight where a major portion of the valley is seen is at Gulibagh on main road, which leads to Madyan.
There are some subsidiary valleys, which help to increase the width of the main valley. These subsidiary valleys are called "Daras". A Dara a narrow passage between mountains, and sometimes, the upper course of a river is also called Dara. If we imagine the main valley as a stem of a tree the subsidiary valleys form its branches.
Swat River and its tributaries drain Swat. There fore, the whole valley is the outcome of running water. This flowing water cuts the upper courses deeply, and flows the load of washed away materials. As the gradient is greater in the upper course so the erosion is on large scale, particularly in the summer rains, when all the rivers are in flood. The big boulders and stones are rolled, which causes more destruction in the upper courses. When the loaded water reaches to the areas of low gradient, the heavier materials are deposited. The deposition takes place according to the slope, generally, we observe, that the upper course is made up of big boulders, the middle course is of relatively small stones, pebbles, and debris, while the lower course is made of fine clay. Anyhow, the whole plain of Swat valley is strewn by the running water, and is made up of fine alluvial soil.
Actually the valley of Swat starts from the foothill of Malakand but we are concerned with portion from Landakay to Gabral (Gulabad), the area within the administrative boundaries of Swat.
The length of the valley from Landakay to Gabral is 91 miles. Two narrow strips of plains run along the banks of Swat River from Landakay to Madyan. Beyond Madyan in Kohistan-e-Swat, the plan is too little to be mentioned. So for as the width concerns, it is not similar, it varies from place to place. We can say that the average width is 5 miles. The widest portion of the valley is between Barikot and Khwazakheila. The widest view point and the charming sight where a major portion of the valley is seen is at Gulibagh on main road, which leads to Madyan.
There are some subsidiary valleys, which help to increase the width of the main valley. These subsidiary valleys are called "Daras". A Dara a narrow passage between mountains, and sometimes, the upper course of a river is also called Dara. If we imagine the main valley as a stem of a tree the subsidiary valleys form its branches.
Swat River and its tributaries drain Swat. There fore, the whole valley is the outcome of running water. This flowing water cuts the upper courses deeply, and flows the load of washed away materials. As the gradient is greater in the upper course so the erosion is on large scale, particularly in the summer rains, when all the rivers are in flood. The big boulders and stones are rolled, which causes more destruction in the upper courses. When the loaded water reaches to the areas of low gradient, the heavier materials are deposited. The deposition takes place according to the slope, generally, we observe, that the upper course is made up of big boulders, the middle course is of relatively small stones, pebbles, and debris, while the lower course is made of fine clay. Anyhow, the whole plain of Swat valley is strewn by the running water, and is made up of fine alluvial soil.
Climate:
Swat is lying in the Temperate Zone in the northern mountainous ranges of the Indo-Pak Sub–Continent, therefore, here weather is affected by all the climatic factors “latitude, altitude and rain bearing winds” (the cyclone and monsoon winds).
In summer, Swat comes under the influence of the monsoon, while in winter, it is affected by the Cyclonic Current from the Mediterranean Sea.
In summer, Swat comes under the influence of the monsoon, while in winter, it is affected by the Cyclonic Current from the Mediterranean Sea.
Temperature:
So for the temperature is concerned, the height of Swat varies from 2500 ft to 7500 ft, therefore, this is colder zone. Due to the absence of meteorological department, we cannot quote the actual recorded data; anyhow, January is the coldest month of the year. The temperature, generally, remains between 40°F and 45°F (2°C to -2°C). The water-freezing season is from the last week of December to the end of February. In mountainous areas it takes more than three months.
The hottest month is July, in which the temperature rises to more than 90 °F (32°C) in the plains, but in mountainous areas, it is lower. In Buner, however, we find a little bit extremity of weather.
The hottest month is July, in which the temperature rises to more than 90 °F (32°C) in the plains, but in mountainous areas, it is lower. In Buner, however, we find a little bit extremity of weather.
Rain Fall:
There are three rain-bearing seasons:
1. Winter Rains 2. Spring Rain 3. Summer Rains
1. Winter Rains 2. Spring Rain 3. Summer Rains
Winter Rains:
These rains start in December and last to the end of February. When the rainfall starts once, it remains continuous to one or two weeks. This continuous rainfall is called Jarai. The rain of this season is usually, with slow fall and small drops. In the plain, the snowfall takes place from 15th January to the end of February. But in mountainous areas, the snow period is from the beginning of December to the end of March. (In November, the snow also falls on mountains, but melts soon.)
Spring Rains:
The rains from March to May are regarded as the spring rains. In this season, the rainfall occurs in shower with thunder and lightening, and the drops are bigger. The lengthened period of the continuation of the spring rains is destructive for the muddy homes of the poor villagers. Summer Rains:Usually, there is a gap of one dry month, June, between the rains of spring and summer. The summer rains begin in July, and end in September. These rains are not so continuous. They are in intermittent position. Sometimes the rainfall takes place suddenly with hailstones, which results in the damages to property and lives. The rain of this season falls with shower and lightning. The annual rainfall is about 50 inch.
The general effects of the weather condition are cold winter and warm summer, and the coldest winter in mountainous areas.
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